Buying new vs used riding gear: what's worth it?

Gear you can inspect piece by piece, such as a saddle, a bridle or a pair of boots, can often be a good used buy when you know what to look for. The table sorts what the sources say, and says whose advice each line is. We are not comparing costs here, and we do not show prices on this page.

A caution on the word “used.” A friend's helmet or a barn's loaner is still used. The advice below is about whether you know the full history of the item, not just where you found it.

Its helmet FAQ gives the reason that you can't tell whether the helmet has already been in an impact. It also says a helmet is only designed for one impact event, that the damage may not be visible, and that you should replace it at least every five years from the date of purchase.

RoSPA, a UK safety charity, takes a slightly softer line on the same facts. It calls crash, cycling and riding helmets “one hit” products and says an accident, or even dropping one, can weaken the internal structure without a visible mark. Its advice is to buy these second-hand only if you are assured of their history, and never to buy one that has already been involved in an accident. It also says a helmet from a relative or friend you know well, with a known history, is different from one bought from a stranger. Read together, both come down to one question: do you know the helmet's history?

For when to retire a helmet you own, see When should I replace my riding helmet?. For fit, see How do I measure my head for a riding helmet? Our helmet buyer's guide and helmet ratings page explain helmet certifications and ratings.

On its body protector page it says body protectors should be replaced at least every three to five years, depending on use and care, and that after five years the foam's impact absorption may start to decline. After a heavy fall it says to check the protector immediately for dents: the foam should regain its shape within 30 minutes, and a dent that stays suggests that section has lost its protective properties.

BETA also says to wear a garment bearing the current BETA 2018 Standard, and that garments with obsolete labels should not be worn. A used garment can carry an old label, so the label is another thing to check. BETA is a UK body, and rules for US competitions are set separately. We cover the US rules in Air vest, body protector or both? and list what we carry on our safety vests page.

We did not find a source we could read on buying air vests second-hand. If that is your plan, ask the maker what it advises before you buy.

The British Horse Society's tack page (last reviewed April 2026, advice attributed to the Society of Master Saddlers and the BHS) recommends starting at a local saddlery shop or with a Society of Master Saddlers qualified saddle fitter, since they often have second-hand saddles they have already checked. For a private sale it advises getting a qualified saddler to check it before you part with your money, and it warns that a cheap saddle can turn out expensive if it is damaged or doesn't fit.

Three sources give the checklist below: the Utah State University Extension fact sheet, which says a broken tree should never be used, a 1999 Horse Journal article, Walk Away From Dubious Used Tack, which warns against a bad tree too, and a 2002 EquiSearch piece, Buying a Used English Saddle. All three are more than ten years old, and the last quotes repair costs, which we don't repeat. The inspection advice agrees across them and with the BHS.

The saddle also has to fit your horse. The 1999 article says a bargain saddle with the wrong tree width for your horse isn't a good buy, and the 2002 article says not to try to fit the saddle to your horse in your head: take it home or have it sent so you can try it on him. For measuring, see How do I measure a saddle gullet?

• Tree: pull the cantle toward you while holding the saddle lengthwise. The BHS says excessive give suggests a broken tree. Creases or ripples in the seat could signal a weakened or broken one. A spring tree may flex slightly, but the USU fact sheet says the flex should be equal on both sides.
• Leather: firm but supple, with no cracks or bubbles when bent.
• Stitching: tight and even. Loose, missing or rotting stitches need repair, and the BHS points to girth straps and D-rings in particular.
• Billets and panels: Horse Journal says to look for loose stitching and stretched or torn holes in the billets, and for cracked foam or lumpy wool in the panels.
• Scuffed pommel or cantle: the BHS says this may mean the saddle was dropped or damaged.
• Fittings: USU prefers stainless steel or brass, and says fittings strapped to the tree outlast those sewn in.
• Buying unseen: the BHS says it would not recommend it. If you do, ask for clear photos from all angles, including the underside and panels, and ask whether the seller takes returns.

The 1999 Horse Journal article says bridles, stirrup leathers and reins take heavy wear, that you should check every row of stitching, and that leather should be uniform in width and thickness and pliable. It adds that raised browbands and cavessons are especially prone to wear.

The BHS tack page tells you to check buckles and fastenings, especially billets and bridle hooks, and says that if the holes are stretched you shouldn't buy the bridle. It also says to be wary of listings that use phrases like “soft as butter,” which it says usually mean the leather is poor quality or has been over oiled. Its closing rule is one worth keeping: if you're in any doubt, don't buy it.

For bits, Horse Journal says to check wear between the mouthpiece and the cheekpiece, because a deteriorated bit can pinch a horse's mouth. A bit also needs to be the right size for the horse, which What size bit does my horse need? explains, and if you plan to show, it needs to meet the class rules. See Is this bit legal for dressage? and Which bits are legal in the hunters and equitation?

For tall boots, the 2012 Horse Journal article says to inspect zippers regularly and estimates zippers last about two to four years of daily use with correct care, so a used pair's zipper is worth testing before you commit. Our boot zipper page covers what to look for. Stiff boots can take weeks to break in, and the same article says pain during break-in suggests a poor fit, which is another reason to try a used pair on first.

Children outgrow things before they wear them out, and families pass things along, which is where used gear works well.

For a new rider, our new-rider gear page sorts what to get first, and paddock boots for kids who keep growing covers the boot question. Helmets are the exception to hand-me-downs, as the helmets section above explains.

Here is how one rider describes the hand-me-down habit:

A short list covers most of it.

If you are selling, remember the other side of the table. Gear that no longer fits keeps good tack moving when it goes to the next rider, as the rider below describes. A helmet or body protector is the one thing to keep out of the pile unless you can state its full history, as RoSPA and BETA describe above.

• How old is it, and has it ever had a fall or been dropped? (Helmets and body protectors: the sources above say a hidden history is the whole problem.)
• Can you send photos of all angles, including the underside and panels of a saddle? (BHS)
• Does it carry the current standard label? (BETA, for body protectors)
• Will the seller take it back if a saddle fitter or your own check finds a problem? (BHS)
• Does it meet the rules of the class you plan to show in? (Bits, stirrups and clothing can all be class-specific.)