Why do boot zippers fail, and how do I make boots last?

Margaret Freeman opened her Horse Journal care article with the line “Zippers fail at the most inconvenient times,” and her list of causes is short. Her 2012 piece, The Ups and Downs of Tall Zippered Boots, estimates zippers last about two to four years of daily use with correct care. That is the author's estimate, not a maker's promise.

The causes the two Horse Journal articles give are below. Notice that most of them are things you can change.

Where the zip sits changes the chore. The 2012 article says field boots usually have back zippers and dress boots usually have inside-front zippers, and that front zippers get more dirt.

• Dirt and debris in the teeth or the slider, including grit, sweat and horse hair.
• Residue from leather cleaner, and silicone products, which the article says attract dirt.
• Wrinkles at the ankle, which can distort the zipper and shorten its life.
• Forcing a zipper that is stuck.
• Soft leather or a boot that is too tall, which cause the ankle wrinkles.

Ovation's tall boot fitting guide says that when you buy zippered boots, choose a calf size that matches or slightly exceeds yours, to prevent zipper damage. It adds that if your calf is more than 1/8 inch bigger than the boot's size, you should try the next size up, and that you should be able to close the zippers completely and fasten the top while standing. Our field boots page gives the same test in plain words: the zip should close without a fight, and if it only closes with a fight, move up a width instead of stretching.

Too much boot causes trouble as well. The 2012 Horse Journal article says soft leather or excess height that causes wrinkles at the ankle can lead to zipper failure, and that a boot that is too tall can't be cut down without replacing the zippers. For new stiff boots it mentions heel lifts during break-in as a way to ease strain on the calf and zipper, and says a stiff boot may take about six weeks of daily riding to break in, against about a week for a field boot. Pain during break-in suggests a poor fit. Our boot fit page covers cover height and the drop, and wide-calf options has the measuring for bigger calves.

The 2012 Horse Journal article says to clean zippers after every ride, especially inside zippers, which collect dirt, sweat and horse hair. The 2017 article adds to brush off the zipper's teeth before closing it, and to bend at the knees when you pull the zipper up, which helps prevent wrinkles. The 2017 article also warns against forcing the zip.

Our field boots page makes the same points in its boot-care section: close the zip fully and fasten any zipper keeper at the top after every ride, brush grit out of the teeth, wipe the boot after every ride, and check the zipper pull and keeper each week. It describes one boot we carry, the Mountain Horse Sovereign, as having a snap zipper keeper at the top and a protective heel cover with a snap to safeguard the zipper.

Here is the sequence the sources describe, with whose advice each step is.

The sources do not agree on everything. Horse Journal recommends a zipper-specific cleaner or lubricant and warns off silicone, while a Danish equestrian media article suggests oiling the zipper along its length. Because a boot maker's care sheet may be stricter, follow it first. The Danish piece adds that in most cases a cleaning is enough, so start there. For the leather itself, see How do I clean and condition leather tack?

• Brush dry dirt and grit from the teeth, including the bottom near the heel where dirt collects (Malgré Tout Media; Horse Journal).
• Wipe the zipper inside and out with a damp cloth and a little dish soap (Malgré Tout Media).
• Apply a zipper cleaner or lubricant regularly, and let it dry before you store the boots (Horse Journal, 2017). Test any product on a small spot of leather first.
• Keep leather cleaner off the zipper, because residue attracts dirt. Avoid silicone products and coat shiners near it (Horse Journal, 2017).
• Use boot cream on the leather rather than saddle soap, which the article calls too harsh for most boots (Horse Journal, 2017).

The 2017 Horse Journal article says to dry boots at room temperature away from direct heat and sun, allowing at least 12 hours between wearings if you can, and to use boot hangers to dry them upside down and prevent wrinkles. It also says to straighten wrinkles with boot jacks or rolled newspaper. Equinavia's gear care article says the same about heat: air dry completely and avoid direct heat such as hair dryers, which can make materials crack or turn brittle. It also recommends boot trees for riding boots, to preserve their shape, and a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.

One point is contested. The Horse Journal writer says some product advice is to leave zippers open, and disagrees: the leather should keep its shape instead of sinking into wrinkles, so zip them closed once they are dry. We follow her because wrinkles are on the cause list above, but if your boot maker's care sheet says otherwise, follow the maker.

The 2017 Horse Journal article says to wiggle a stuck zipper gently and swipe vinegar over it, calling it a gentle acid that can dissolve tiny bits of debris. If you are wearing the boot, bend your knees to straighten any wrinkle that is causing the jam, or have someone else work the zipper, since they may have a better angle. Once it is free, apply a zipper cleaner or lubricant to remove the dirt that caused the jam.

For a break at a show, the same writer suggests keeping a roll of black or brown duct tape in your tack box and, if the zipper breaks, taping yourself into your boots until they can be fixed. If a pull tab comes off, she says a thin strip of tape rolled through the two loops on the slider can serve, and a loose slider can be pinched on both sides with pliers. The 2012 article suggests black duct tape or black self-adhesive bandage wrap, brown for brown boots. These are stopgaps from a magazine, not repairs.

Its reasoning is that the same forces act on each. It also says many manufacturers and distributors have return, repair or warranty policies, so keep your receipt, and the 2017 article says the same. The Danish article says that if cleaning doesn't help, the teeth or the slider are likely broken, and you can replace the zipper or the boots.

Riders tend to go to a boot repair shop for the job, as the quote below shows. Before a show season, ask your repair shop how long a zipper job takes. If boots are new and the zipper fails, start with the seller or maker's warranty.

Our field boots page says to wipe the boot after every ride and condition leather on a schedule. Equinavia says leather benefits from conditioning every two to four weeks, while synthetic materials don't need conditioning like leather does: mild soap and gentle scrubbing, without soaking, is its advice. It names boot interiors as spots where dirt and bacteria build up. The 2012 Horse Journal article reminds us that stiff riding boots are not designed for walking, so a pair of paddock or barn boots for chores takes wear off them. See Can I wear my riding boots for barn chores?

If you are choosing a pair, leather or synthetic tall boots compares the materials, and field boots or dress boots covers the styles, including where the zippers sit.