Your helmet is the one piece of tack that truly can't be a compromise. Here's everything you need to know to buy right — and ride with confidence.
Start with Fit →A helmet's sole job is to absorb and redirect impact energy before it reaches your skull. Everything else — style, ventilation, brand — is secondary.
An ill-fitting helmet offers significantly less protection than the label promises. A helmet that moves on impact isn't doing its job — regardless of certifications.
Helmet foam compresses on impact and doesn't spring back. If your head hit the ground, that helmet needs replacing — even if it looks perfectly fine.
Certifications tell you a helmet passed minimum testing requirements. The more standards a helmet meets, the broader and stricter the testing criteria it cleared.
A correctly fitted helmet should feel snug without pressure points. It should not rock forward, backward, or side to side. It should not slide down over your eyes when you push the front up. Get this right before you think about anything else.
Using a soft tape measure, wrap it around the circumference of your head at its widest point — typically about 1 inch above your eyebrows and across the widest part of the back of your skull. Record in centimeters. If you're between sizes, go up.
The helmet brim should sit two fingers above your eyebrows — roughly 1 inch. It should sit level on your head, not tipped back. If the front rides too high or low, you may need a different size or a different brand's head shape (oval vs. round).
Press down firmly on the top with the heel of your hand. It should not shift or wobble. Rock it front-to-back and side-to-side. No more than minimal movement is acceptable. If it shifts significantly, go down a size or try a different brand.
The chin strap harness should create a V-shape on each side, with the junction just below your ear. The chin cup should sit under your chin, not on your throat. When you open your mouth wide, you should feel slight downward pressure — that's correct.
With the chin strap fastened, fit two fingers (but no more) between strap and chin. Tilt your head forward sharply — the helmet should not fall forward over your eyes. If it does, tighten the harness or try a smaller size.
A well-fitted helmet should feel snug but not painful after 20–30 minutes. Slight pressure on first wear typically eases as padding breaks in. Sharp, persistent pressure points mean the shape isn't right for your head — try a different brand before assuming a different size.
Use your head circumference in centimeters to find your starting size. Always try before you buy — this is a guide, not a guarantee, and brand sizing varies.
| Circumference (cm) | Circumference (in) | US Hat Size | EU / Generic Size |
|---|---|---|---|
| 51–52 | 20–20½ | 6⅜–6½ | XS |
| 53–54 | 20¾–21¼ | 6⅝–6¾ | S |
| 55–56 | 21¾–22 | 6⅞–7 | M |
| 57–58 | 22½–22¾ | 7⅛–7¼ | L |
| 59–60 | 23¼–23½ | 7⅜–7½ | XL |
| 61–62 | 24–24½ | 7⅝–7¾ | XXL |
| 63+ | 24¾+ | 7⅞+ | XXXL |
Size designations (XS–XXL) vary by manufacturer. Always verify against the brand's own size chart before purchasing.
Every helmet sold in the US must meet at least one certified standard — but not all standards are equal. Understanding the differences helps you make a smarter choice. Think of these as floors, not ceilings.
Required by USEF, USPC, and most US competitions. Tests impact absorption and retention integrity across a wide temperature range (−20°F to 120°F+) and after water submersion.
What it doesn't require: penetration testing or crush resistance. Helmets with large ventilation cutouts can pass ASTM while leaving gaps that European standards would flag.
Used across UK and EU equestrian sports. Stricter than ASTM — adds spike penetration testing and crush resistance requirements. A helmet passing VG1 or EN 1384 has cleared a tougher bar.
PAS 015 (British Standards) operates at a similar level. Helmets certified to both ASTM and VG1 have been tested against more failure modes — the better baseline for competitive riders.
The most rigorous equestrian helmet testing available. Encompasses everything ASTM and VG1 test, with stricter pass/fail thresholds — higher impact drops, varied anvil shapes, and demanding crush resistance criteria.
Only a handful of helmet models worldwide carry SNELL certification. If you're jumping, eventing, or regularly riding unpredictable horses, it's the highest independently verified protection available.
Look for helmets certified to both ASTM F1163 and VG1 or EN 1384 as a minimum. If you're an active competitor — especially in eventing or jumping — a SNELL E2016 helmet is worth the investment. Multi-standard certification means a helmet has been tested against more failure modes, not just that it passed the same test twice.
MIPS (Multi-Directional Impact Protection System) addresses a type of brain injury traditional helmets don't fully protect against: rotational force. It's a supplement to certification, not a replacement for it.
Most riding falls aren't straight vertical drops — they're angled impacts where you're moving forward or sideways when you hit. This generates rotational force: the brain twisting inside the skull. Traditional helmet testing measures linear impact absorption. Rotational force is a different problem.
MIPS addresses this with a thin low-friction slip-plane liner (usually yellow) between the helmet's padding and your head. On an angled impact, this layer allows the outer shell to rotate 10–15mm relative to your skull — redirecting rotational energy away from your brain rather than transferring it.
The mechanism mimics the brain's own cerebrospinal fluid protection system, adding technological reinforcement when the natural system isn't enough. It adds roughly 30 grams to the helmet — about six sheets of paper.
MIPS is additive — it doesn't replace the need for a certified helmet or proper fit. It's a supplemental layer on top of an already-certified helmet. Look for it as an upgrade within your chosen model, not a substitute for standards.
MIPS typically adds $20–$50 to a helmet's price. For riders who spend significant time in the saddle — especially jumping or trail riding where fall angles vary — that's a clear value calculation given what's at stake.
The original MIPS uses a yellow slip liner. Newer variants include MIPS-C2 (thinner profile), MIPS Spherical (two-shell system), and MIPS Integra (integrated into padding). Different construction, same rotational protection principle.
The right helmet depends on where and how you ride. Competition rules often dictate minimum standards — and different riding styles prioritize different features. Here's what to look for across disciplines.
The largest equestrian helmet category. Ranges from traditional velvet to modern ventilated designs. USEF requires ASTM/SEI at minimum — dual certification recommended.
FEI and recognized USEF dressage competitions have specific appearance requirements. Today's dressage helmets offer a sleek, polished look with full certification.
XC helmets face the highest safety bar in the sport. Falls at speed over fixed obstacles demand maximum certification — SNELL E2016 is strongly recommended.
Helmet adoption in western riding has grown significantly. Modern western helmets combine certified protection with a profile that complements western attire naturally.
Trail and recreational riders often prioritize comfort and ventilation for longer rides. There's no reason comfort has to come at the expense of safety — start with ASTM + VG1.
Young riders need properly fitted helmets just as much as adults — possibly more. Don't hand down helmets of unknown history, and re-check fit as they grow.
Not sure where to start? Pick the type that matches how you ride and what you need — each links directly to that filtered selection in our helmet catalog.
Ventilation affects comfort on warm-weather rides and long schooling sessions — but it's a balance against coverage and structural integrity. More vents doesn't automatically mean better protection.
Larger or more numerous air channels move heat away from the head efficiently. Great for warm climates, trail riding, and riders who run hot.
The trade-off: more ventilation openings means more gaps in the outer shell. Look for helmets where vents are internally reinforced or mesh-covered to maintain structural integrity despite the openings.
Best for: trail riding, warm climates, long schooling sessions, cross-country
Fewer or smaller vents prioritize a clean silhouette and more complete shell coverage. Dressage helmets typically fall here — the smooth profile is part of the aesthetic.
Arena riding at a walk-trot-canter is also less physically demanding on heat management than galloping across country, making lower ventilation less of a practical compromise.
Best for: dressage, show hunters, cool climates, formal competition
Large ventilation cutouts that aren't internally reinforced can reduce coverage. The ASTM standard doesn't test penetration resistance, so a heavily vented helmet can still carry ASTM certification. If penetration protection matters to you — it should for jumping and XC — look for dual certification including VG1 or EN 1384, which require penetration testing that ventilated helmets must still pass.
A helmet is not a lifetime piece of kit. The EPS foam inside compresses on impact and loses its energy-absorbing ability — often without any visible sign of damage. When in doubt, replace it.
If your head hit the ground — even if the helmet looks and feels fine — replace it. The foam has done its job and can't do it again. This is non-negotiable.
A significant drop from height (off a fence post, from a saddle bag) can compress foam. If it fell hard, treat it as suspect.
Most manufacturers recommend replacing every 5 years from date of first use, even without an impact. Foam degrades, straps deteriorate, and shell materials become brittle over time.
Cracks in the shell, delamination, compressed or crumbling foam, broken buckles, or a harness that won't tension correctly. Trust what you see.
If a once-snug helmet suddenly feels loose, the internal foam has likely degraded or compressed. A helmet that doesn't fit is a helmet that won't protect you properly.
If you don't know a helmet's history — secondhand, barn find, borrowed — replace it. The savings aren't worth riding in a helmet with a possible hidden prior impact.
Write the purchase date inside your helmet, or set a calendar reminder for 5 years out. It's easy to forget how long a piece of kit has been in service when it still looks good on the outside. The foam inside doesn't announce when it's tired.
A properly cared-for helmet lasts its full expected lifespan. The most common mistakes involve heat, solvents, and rough cleaning — all of which degrade foam and shell materials without being visible from the outside.
| What | How to Do It | What to Avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Outer Shell | Wipe with a damp cloth and mild soap. Dry naturally. | Harsh chemicals, acetone, spray cleaners, abrasive pads — these degrade polycarbonate shells. |
| Velvet / Suede | Brush gently with a soft lint brush to lift the nap. Spot clean with a damp cloth only. | Don't saturate velvet. Avoid cleaning sprays directly on the fabric. |
| Interior Padding | Most liners are removable and machine washable on a gentle, cold cycle. Air dry completely before reinserting. | Don't tumble dry — heat degrades EPS foam and padding adhesives. Don't wring removable liners. |
| Harness & Chin Strap | Hand wash with mild soap and warm water. Rinse thoroughly. Allow to air dry completely. | Don't bleach. Don't use fabric softener — it degrades nylon and polypropylene webbing. |
| Storage | Store in a cool, dry place. A helmet bag or box is ideal. Keep out of direct sunlight. | Don't store in a hot car or trailer. UV and heat accelerate foam and shell degradation. Don't pile heavy items on top. |
| Ventilation Channels | Clear with a soft brush or compressed air if hay or arena dirt accumulates. | Don't use metal objects in vent slots — they can damage internal mesh or reinforcements. |
A car interior on a summer day can reach 140°F+. EPS foam begins to degrade at sustained elevated temperatures. Don't leave your helmet in a parked trailer or car for extended periods. This is the most common way to unknowingly compromise a helmet's integrity before any fall has even occurred.
We carry helmets from the brands riders actually trust — across price tiers, disciplines, and certification levels. Deal pricing updated daily.
Shop All Helmets →Before you hit purchase, run through this. Every item matters.
Measured in cm · snug with no rocking · harness V-shape below each ear · two fingers under chin strap
ASTM F1163 minimum · ASTM + VG1 or EN 1384 recommended · SNELL E2016 for eventing/XC
Worth it for regular riders, especially over fences or on varied terrain. Adds minimal weight for measurable rotational protection.
Verify the helmet suits your sport and check show rules if competing. Dressage, hunter, and XC helmets have different appearance and certification requirements.